Tuesday, August 6, 2013

The Art of Fake Food

Before I explain how to make certain kinds of fake food, I would like to address the decision making process that should be involved before you start to create it. This will help you pinpoint the design  and produce the most realistic prop with the materials that you have.

1. Evaluate Your Priorities: Should this food be made cheaply, quickly or perfectly? Sometimes it's necessary to have food look as real as possible when it is the focus of a scene. Othertimes, it is an item placed in a basket or cart as extra set dressing. How is this fake food being used?

2. Think about Style. Should it be realistic or cartoonish etc? Who is your audience and what is the client or set designer's goal?

3. Research Geography. See what kinds of foods were available within the setting of the action. Was this food grown locally or could it have been an import?

4. Consider Historic Context. How has it been since this food was harvested? Is it fresh or not? Has it been washed or cooked? Were these vegetables/or fruits available to these characters at this season? How did people of that era store these foods?

5. Research the Actual Obect: when researching food there are some specific things to note when looking at the pictures you find including: Scale, texture, weight, color and taste. Obviously fake food is not to be literally tasted, but it is important to ask yourself whilst making the food-is this appealing? What is it that makes this food appear tasty?

Collecting Supplies for your Project.

Here are a list of common supplies which may be utilized as fake food and what to expect from them.

Craft Foam: Craft foam comes in a variety of colors which contributes to it's usefulness. It may be painted with accylic paints to tone down the bright colors. In the photos below the ham, pepperoni and salami were made from craft foam. Notice how the texture and thickness of craft foam serves well for flat meats.


L-200: This flexible and thin rolled foam can be used as a white cheese. It can also be used to cover surfaces such as cake fondent. Paintable with acrylic. Slightly thicker than craft foam

Upholstery Foam: Easy to carve into shapes with a turkey knife. Often times yellow or green in color. The texture is spongy which makes it great for cakes or bread. This cake below was painted with accrylic paint.  Toughen its texture by using sculpt or coat, but note the porous texture is difficult to hide if it is not appropriate.

Rock Hard Water Puddy: The Cake Above has a center layer of icing made of  water Puddy. Having a naturally pinkish hue, Puddy may be painted over with craft paint or have paint mixed into it during the hardening process to tint. The cake above has a touch of red glitter glued onto it to give it a strawberry sheen.

Spakling: Premixed Spakling can take a few minutes longer to cure than water additived mixes. This makes premixed Spakling a prime choice for loading it into cake decorating bags to create decorative frosting.


Beads and Woodsies: Small craft supplies such as beads and woodsies serve as small delicatables well when painted and altered as a stage prop. Beads make great seeds, candies and berries. Woodsies make wonderful vegetables such as tiny tomatoes or a variety of legumes.  

White Cone Craft Foam: is a type of floral foam. It is also commonly manufactured in an egg shale. Accepts sculpt or coat and may be painted. Good for carving and creating small fruits or veggies suh as mushrooms or peppers etc. 

Beaded Foam: Beaded foam can be easily carved into a number of shapes with a saw, rasp or sharp steak knife. However, I do warn those considering this material to be aware of its beaded texture. Sculpt or Coat may be painted on top of the foam to smooth it out a little. However, it will always have a grainy texture. That's why I would reccomend bead foam for chunky cheese or baked goods which have a surface which is jagged. Otherwise beaded foam may be covered with cheese cloth or other fabrics and serve as a good base product for the fake food.

Hot Glue: Hot glue is a props artisans go to adhesive. However, it may also be used in a variety of ways in the application of fake food. Drizzle hot glue on top of a project to create frosting, syrup or jam. The hot product may be squirted into a mold to make fake candy such as the gum drops on the Christmas cake above. 

FEV: French Enamel Varnish: is a combination of leather dye, alcohol and shellac. May be painted on with a brush or applied with a pre Val spray container. Great for creating colored sheens or adding color to dried glaze. Often used to color glass to represent liquids.

Poly Accrylic Spray Frost: great for indicating clear or cool liquids in glasses. 

Model Magic: 
Model magic has a nice soft texture but will semi harden with air exposure. It has a smooth surface which accepts craft paint. This is wonderful for portraying chewy foods such as cookies or candy bars, but also can be painted as baked goods as soft as muffins Etc. 

Air Dry Clay: Has an off white or gray coloration. It has a very hard consistency when dried. It accepts most water based paints as it is slightly porous and can be coated with shellac for a final shine. Good for chocolates and other candies. 

Oil Based Clays: come in a variety of colors but are often to soft for stage use. 

Earth Clays: are to dirty to accept paint and do Not make a good food product material. 

Tissue: tissue may be applied into bead foam or mâché to add a wrinkled texture to the product. Great for creating a texture for dry cheese or providing leaves to foam lettuce heads below. Accepts spray paint best or misted accrylic. 



Monday, February 11, 2013

Monday, January 7, 2013

Sunday, December 4, 2011

CastinCraft Casting Resin

Castin Craft Casting Resin Project:

Recently I experienced this craft store bought plastic making material in the prop shop. My project was to create a knife for The Ice Queen in My Fairytale for PCPA Theaterfest. I began with the inspiration that the blade should be shaped like an icicle. So I began with an oil based clay in shaping the blade. I then built a wooden box one of 1/4 in order to mold the blade.

After creating a mold for the knife. Dan mixed the CastinCraft Catalyst into the CastinCraft. There is a mix ratio in the instruction booklet depending on the amount you need. There were six catalyst drops for this project. It has a room temperature curing reaction. It took about half a day for this to fully cure. I removed it from the mold. I secured a bolt onto the plastic icicle. This plastic also does not bubble much unless blended to vigorously.   Thinner projects take only about 40 minutes to cure.

I pulled a hilt from a different dagger. I strung a bead onto the end and secured it with hot glue and wire. The wires run through small gaps in the hilt to connect the blade. The curved portion of the hilt is MDF cut to fit the blade. Its curves were traced and cut out with a band saw. It was then painted and glitter sprayed.






Thursday, October 13, 2011

Rubber Glass II for Glass and Ice Effects


                                                  
Rubber Glass II is a product of smooth-on.com. It is a silicon rubber used to mimic ice and glass. It is a bouncy, ripable substance. It is NOT to be used as a breakable like candy glass. However, it can be used to create the effect of broken glass. Rubber glass rips/crumbles apart easily.

Safety First:
Use a Respirator that is
"OSHA respirator regulations 29 CFR 1910.134 and European
Standard EN 149; wear an MSHA/NIOSH or European Standard EN149 approved respirator." Official MSDS

Also wear vynel gloves and safety googles.
Rubber Glass is a Tin based silicon. Do NOT use it with platinum based silicons. This will cause a chemical reaction which will not yield the product you want.

Compatible Molds & Mold Products:
Oomo (all kinds) by smooth on
Mold Max 20 by smooth on
An Ice Tray
Create a mold with a object for an ice scuplture, replicate diamods or ice art. With an home made mold use one of the above silicon products to create. Prep the mold with a pour spout and small air escape hole. If you want quick ice cubes use a regular ice tray. Prepare your mold with All Purpose Mold Release or Mold Release 200.

Rubber Glass II comes in a trial pack with four bottles. 3 are Part A and 1 is part B.  The mix ratio is 3 Part A : 1 part B. At a quick glance it may be good to use your bottles all at once. However, if you are making a small project and want to conserve your silicon for later, use one A bottle at a time. Rubber Glass II is a sensative silicon when exposed to temperature. After leaving some leftovers in open bottles in cold weather and then pouring samples, I discovered my second batch of ice cubes were very different from the first.

 On the Left: Batch 1: It is a very clear and crisp turn out. It crumbles easily, leaving angled rips.
On the Right Batch 2: Somewhat cloudy and more rubbery feeling ice cube. It rips easily, but with rounded rips.





Mix thoroughly but not to quickly. Fold the clear silicon into the more liquidy part B instead of stirring. Gently pour into mold. Tap out air bubbles if possible to cause them to rise out of the escape spout. Let set. Cure Time is 16 hours. Pourly mixed silicon will NEVER cure and will be gooey. However, will careful measurements Rubber Glass II is predictable and lovely.


Saturday, October 8, 2011

Live Face Casting: Body Double

Live Facial Casting Project by Dan & Lydia

Prepare with:
Vinyl Gloves
Body Double Fast or Standard set by Smooth-on
Body Double release Cream or Vaseline
Bald cap
Straws
Bobby Pins
Unused paint Brushes
Plastic measuring cups
Plaster Strips
Warm Water

*How many technicians does it take to cast someone's face? 2 Seriously: Do Not Do it Alone.

Step 1. Thoroughly discuss your project with your subject. Be sure that they understand the entire process of what is about to happen beforehand. Remind them that if they cannot breath to immediately remove the mask of the mold. It will peel off easily with mold release. Let the subject decide how they would like to be ventilated either through the nose or the mouth. It is technical courtesy. Either way the mold is done the ventilation holes will be filled with extra body double at the end of the process.

*If the nose is chosen NO STRAWS should be used. Shoving straws up peoples noses causes bloody noses which cannot be breathed through.

*The mouth however, REQUIRES a fresh STRAW.

Step 2.  The subject should wash their face before getting started. If it is not a whole head matrix and the subject has long hair pull it back. Cover their hair with a bald cap and secure with bobby pins. Next apply the mold release using the brushes (not your oily hands). Let the subject apply thoroughly around their eyes including lids. Apply more heavily around the eye brows. 

Step 3:
Mix a 1:1 ratio of parts A and B of the body double. *Standard Set Mixes Pink and Blue to Make Purplse *Fast Set Mixes Blue greens to turquise

Quanity: The trial size kit is enough for 1 full head matrix. So use at least 1/2 of the mix kit if you are just doing the face of a subject. Be generous in ensuring that your mold is strong.

Time:  For Body Double Standard: It's 5 minutes working time and a demold time of 20 minutes. Body
Double "Fast Set" for fast working time of 90 seconds and a demold time of 5 minutes.

What is Work time: The amount of time in which the product is ideal for application
What is Demold Time: When you can remove the mold
What is Cure Time: the time it takes the silicon to cure completely

*If you are using the "Standard set" you may mix a larger amount at once. You may also have the luxury of double pouring your mix between the two measuring cups you are working with. This helps to prevent mixing errors whilst spreading an even coat of silicon on the cups. Once the cups dry the body double will easily peel off of the plastic.

Why Use Standard?: The Standard set is ideal for larger facial areas and projects, but Not Uneven surfaces.

*If you are mixing the "Fast Set" use smaller portions! Your body double will be drying to fast all at once. You have 90 seconds to apply! Use small amounts and continue to tack on more.  The fast set is more ideal for uneven areas and small areas. It is possible to use it over the entire face as we demonstrate if these photos. However, we were simply using what was available not what was ideal.

*Ideally a facial mold or head mold would have both Standard and Fast Set within the mold. First the Fast set would create a firm foundation around difficult areas to work with in which the Standard set will have to be tended with popsicle sticks. The fast set is the thicker silicon. Then layering the Standard thinner silicon on top and downwards along the sides of the face and mouth.


Step 4: Smudge and smear it as gently and quickly as you can. Keep a constant watch on the subjects behavior and air holes.
Step 5: As the silicon sets begin to prepare your plaster strips.  

Step 6: Apply the plaster strips evenly around the face.
Step 7. The plaster will create a warming reaction. Once the Plaster is Dry about 15 minutes Remove the plaster mask from the face.



Step 8. Remove the body double seperately once it has reached the DEMOLD TIME. It should peel off fairly easily, but be cautious not to tear thinner areas of the mold.


Step 9: Touch up breathing areas by mixing small amounts of body double to fill in the gap.

Step 10:Allow the body double to set inside of the plaster mold until it has reached its Cure Time. My work here is done.

Cast with Dragon Skin  from mold above by Dan Lyon.